Beyond Noma: Discovering Copenhagen’s World-Class Culinary Scene at Geranium
When I announced my trip to Copenhagen, the question I heard most frequently was, “Will you go to Noma?” Upon my return, the tense of the question merely shifted to, “Did you get in?” To settle it once and for all: no, I did not. In fact, I never even attempted to secure a reservation. Noma’s booking system opens three months in advance, and I intentionally bypassed it. For me, Noma has evolved into one of those legendary, almost mythical culinary destinations, akin to the elusive El Bulli. It’s universally acclaimed as the best, yet for most, it remains a place you only ever read about, unless your name happens to be David Chang. Given the notoriously long waiting lists—often exceeding 1,000 names daily—I never truly believed I stood a chance. Consequently, I chose not to engage in a frustrating digital race on reservation D-Day.
Instead, my curiosity led me to research who else was creating exceptional culinary experiences in Copenhagen. The succinct answer is: an abundance of talented chefs. It feels as though Noma’s monumental success has uplifted and energized the entire city’s gastronomic landscape. A new generation of culinary innovators, comprising former Noma chefs and those deeply inspired by its philosophy, has opened a plethora of restaurants. These establishments masterfully serve an inventive Danish cuisine, often in more relaxed and accessible settings. Their dishes consistently impress with their freshness, seasonality, vibrant colors, and profound flavors. The level of refinement in plating and presentation across the city is something I hadn’t encountered on such a widespread scale before. Even casual bistros and cafés in Copenhagen now approach food with a creative and contemporary flair. If you still associate Scandinavian cuisine solely with hearty stews and traditional meatballs, it’s time for a delicious reconsideration.
Beyond the burgeoning scene of Noma-inspired eateries, Copenhagen also boasts an impressive array of established gastronomic restaurants, a fact underlined by the 14 Michelin stars awarded in 2012. Renowned names like Formel B, Relæ, and Kokkeriet were all high on my personal list of must-try establishments. However, after careful consideration, we ultimately decided to indulge in a lunch at Geranium. This choice proved to be an excellent one, especially considering Geranium had just earned its distinguished place among The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, debuting at an impressive position no. 49. The restaurant’s celebrated chef, Rasmus Kofoed, holds a unique distinction, having won the prestigious Bocuse d’Or—often referred to as the world’s toughest culinary competition—in 2011, bringing home the coveted gold after previously securing bronze in 2005 and silver in 2007. His remarkable achievements speak volumes about the caliber of the culinary artistry awaiting us.
Our lunch experience at Geranium proved to be every bit as intricate and refined as one would expect from a dinner service at such a prestigious establishment. Yet, I found myself appreciating it even more deeply because the natural daylight allowed us to fully absorb and admire every delicate detail and masterful presentation of each course. Furthermore, the restaurant’s unique location, perched atop a building, offered breathtaking panoramic views overlooking Copenhagen’s expansive Fælledparken. This stunning backdrop, bathed in natural light, significantly enhanced the overall ambiance, transforming our meal into a truly immersive sensory event.
The interior design of Geranium immediately captured our attention, embodying all the hallmarks of world-renowned Danish design. Clean lines, a deliberate absence of excessive ornamentation, modern minimalist furniture, and a sophisticated monochrome color palette converged to create an atmosphere of understated elegance. Every element seemed purposefully conceived to direct the guests’ focus entirely onto the culinary creations presented on the plates, allowing the food itself to be the ultimate centerpiece. This thoughtful design philosophy contributes to an environment that is both calming and conducive to appreciating the artistic precision of each dish.
A distinctive feature of Geranium’s layout is its kitchen, partially enclosed by a sleek glass wall. This transparent barrier offered us tantalizing glimpses into the heart of their culinary operation, allowing us to observe the team at work. Witnessing the chefs move with such fluid precision, executing their tasks in almost complete silence, all while impeccably dressed in their immaculate whites and towering chef’s hats, was nothing short of impressive. I quickly spotted Chef Kofoed himself at the pass, overseeing every detail. This sight filled me with a quiet joy, and I momentarily paused to reflect on why I was surprised to see a world-renowned chef actively leading his kitchen. Not only was he present, but he personally served and presented a significant number of our courses. This direct interaction with the chef elevated our experience exponentially, transforming it from merely a meal into a deeply personal encounter with culinary artistry. I concluded that this particular phase, when a chef achieves international acclaim but has not yet fully transcended into detached global stardom, might indeed be the absolute best time to savor their cuisine. In this period, the chef remains intimately involved: leading the team, meticulously crafting each and every dish, deftly managing unforeseen challenges, wiping plates to perfection, and even pouring broth over the deconstructed elements of a soup. While I understand that a chef’s role involves training a team to function seamlessly in their absence, the profound, personal connection established through direct interaction with the visionary behind the food is simply irreplaceable.
Chef Rasmus Kofoed at the helm of his kitchen, a true artisan at work.
Our 14-course tasting menu at Geranium was, without exaggeration, the finest meal we had ever experienced. The service throughout was impeccable – flawlessly efficient and exceptionally courteous, yet delivered with a charming touch of informality that made us feel completely at ease. Each dish, a masterful composition, consistently delivered a genuine “wow” effect, captivating our senses with its visual artistry and innovative presentation. Simultaneously, the inherent approachability of the flavors ensured a deep and satisfying enjoyment. While the creativity evident in every presentation was perfectly aligned with contemporary culinary trends, it never felt ostentatious or overdone. Modern cuisine can sometimes lean towards being overly intellectualized, appearing cold or excessively driven by intricate techniques. However, at Geranium, the flavors and culinary references remained wonderfully recognizable and easy to appreciate, striking a perfect balance between innovation and comforting familiarity.
Left: 1st course, delicate Seaweed Potato Chips offering a taste of the sea. Right: 2nd course, an intricately Candied Carrot Shell filled with light Seabuckthorn Foam, balancing sweetness with tartness.
3rd course: An earthy and aromatic blend of Seasalt cheese & ramson, beautifully covered in delicate shoots, accompanied by a cleverly crafted tree trunk-shaped cheese cracker for texture and visual appeal.
4th course: An ethereal presentation of Mushrooms in foam, a dish that played with texture and concentrated umami flavors, showcasing the forest’s bounty in a sophisticated form.
5th course: A delightful illusion – “Razor Clams” artfully presented within an edible shell that perfectly mimicked its natural counterpart, a playful yet refined culinary trick.
6th course: A striking Jerusalem artichoke “tree” drizzled with fragrant walnut oil. Only the pale golden, delicate branches and leaves of this artistic creation were edible, offering a surprising and delightful texture and flavor contrast.
7th course: A delicate and refreshing combination of Jellied ham, crystal-clear tomato water, and vibrant radish flowers, a testament to fresh, seasonal ingredients.
8th course: “The Perfect Scallop,” a truly innovative dish where a rich scallop mixture was masterfully encased within a translucent, edible gelatin container, designed to perfectly resemble a whole, freshly shucked scallop – a triumph of culinary trompe l’oeil.
9th course: Delicately prepared Hake, complemented by the vibrant notes of horseradish juice and fresh herb stems, showcasing a refined understanding of seafood.
Throughout our journey through the tasting menu, even the bread served was a standout. It arrived as perfect, warm nuggets, boasting an irresistibly crunchy exterior that yielded to a moist, airy, choux-like texture within. It was a simple yet profound testament to the attention to detail pervading every aspect of the meal.
10th course: A brilliant reinterpretation of the classic French onion soup, presented as a clear cheese broth adorned with sweet candied onions and crispy roasted rye bread, offering familiar flavors in an unexpected and refined form.
11th course: Succulent Deer, artfully complemented by earthy beetroot, sweet berries, and delicate stems, a celebration of the Danish landscape’s seasonal offerings.
Just when we thought our incredible meal couldn’t possibly get any better, we were presented with an unexpected and delightful invitation: to follow our server for a pre-dessert experience directly in the kitchen. Tucked away at the back of the bustling room, a special table awaits, facing the gleaming stoves and active workstations. Here, guests are invited to sit on comfortable stools, observing the intricate ballet of the kitchen staff at their leisure. We were greeted with warm smiles and friendly hellos from the chefs as we sipped on a refreshing Elderflower Soda, all while being in the esteemed company of Chef Kofoed’s three gleaming Bocuse d’Or statuettes. This immersive interlude offered a rare and intimate glimpse into the high-pressure yet harmonious environment where culinary magic is created, truly making us feel part of the Geranium family.
The captivating view from inside the kitchen, offering a rare glimpse into the heart of Geranium’s culinary operations.
Enjoying the exclusive experience, “Hangin’ with the Bocuses” – a truly memorable moment beside the prestigious Bocuse d’Or statuettes.
After our captivating kitchen visit, we returned to our table for the grand finale – dessert. Following this, we were graciously offered the opportunity to enjoy mignardises and coffee in the restaurant’s serene lounge, an invitation we enthusiastically accepted. As we settled into the comfortable seating, we had the chance to reflect on the extraordinary culinary journey we had just undertaken at Geranium. We were acutely aware that it would likely be a very long time before any other meal could rival, let alone surpass, the unforgettable experience we had just concluded. It was a moment of profound satisfaction and appreciation for the artistry, innovation, and passion that defines Geranium.
13th course: A refreshing and artful composition of Frosty flowers, tart rhubarb, and aromatic thyme, a perfect balance of sweetness and herbaceous notes for dessert.
14th course: Exquisite Mignardises, including delicate carrot leaves and green tea, along with whimsical chocolate and caramel eggs, served with freshly brewed coffee in the tranquil lounge.
The inviting and elegantly appointed restaurant’s lounge, providing a perfect space for reflection and relaxation after a magnificent meal.
Geranium
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8.
2100 Copenhagen
Website / Tel.: +45 6996 0020