Mastering French Culinary Grace

Mastering the Art of French Eating: A Culinary Journey Through France with Ann Mah

Enter to win a copy of Mastering the Art of French Eating, a memoir by Ann Mah // FoodNouveau.com

Ah, France! The undeniable allure of this captivating country resonates deeply with countless people from every corner of the globe. Since the very first day I embarked on my blogging journey, I have become acutely aware of just how fascinating France is to so many. Consistently, my posts dedicated to French cuisine, culture, or tourism gather an extraordinary level of engagement, far surpassing other topics. Similarly, the enchanting Instagram pictures I capture during my frequent visits to Paris always spark widespread interest and lively discussions. Of course, the profound reason I choose to write so extensively about France is because I, too, am a passionate Francophile. You might be curious how a French-Canadian like myself can be such an ardent admirer of France. In truth, the “France bug” often bites us even harder. Our shared history, our mother tongue, and an innate curiosity to understand our origins foster a unique and intensified connection to this magnificent European nation, driving us to explore its depths and celebrate its traditions.

To make the often-long wait between each of my cherished trips to France more bearable, I thoroughly enjoy collecting and immersing myself in memoirs. These are typically written by expats who have had the privilege of visiting or living in France for a significant period. These personal narratives offer a wonderful, vicarious way to experience the country even when I’m not physically there. The most recent and utterly delightful addition to this treasured collection is Mastering the Art of French Eating, a truly captivating memoir penned by the highly acclaimed food and travel writer, Ann Mah. Ann’s personal story unfolds as she and her diplomat husband, Calvin, received what they considered their dream assignment: a three-year posting in the enchanting city of Paris, beginning in 2008. Their idyllic vision of exploring a new city, hand-in-hand and guided by Calvin’s fluency in French, was tragically short-lived. They had barely settled and dropped their bags in their Parisian apartment when Calvin was unexpectedly deployed to Iraq for a year. Suddenly, Ann found herself navigating a complex new culture entirely on her own, wrestling with profound worry and overwhelming loneliness. This unexpected solitude in the City of Lights left her seeking an anchor, a source of solace and connection. Where, then, did Ann find her much-needed salvation? Why, in the glorious, comforting world of French food, of course! Her journey through gastronomy became a powerful means of understanding, coping, and ultimately, thriving in her new environment.

Paris on a cloudy day // FoodNouveau.com

For an entire year, Ann embarked on an extraordinary culinary pilgrimage, traveling extensively across France. Her mission was to learn everything she could about ten of the country’s most celebrated and iconic culinary specialties. This remarkable journey took her from the windswept coastal regions of Brittany to master the delicate art of making perfect crêpes, then ascended to the majestic mountains of Haute-Savoie to understand the communal joy of fondue. Her travels continued through the rich, fertile lands of Burgundy for an in-depth exploration of the hearty and flavorful boeuf bourguignon, and finally led her down to the sun-drenched, fragrant landscapes of Provence for the aromatic delight of soupe au pistou. In her beautifully crafted book, Ann dedicates one captivating chapter to each dish. Within these chapters, she not only provides fascinating, often little-known historical information about the origins and evolution of the specialty but also shares vivid tales of her personal adventures in each specific region. Readers are introduced to a vibrant tapestry of captivating characters—local chefs, dedicated farmers, passionate artisans, and everyday people—with whom she crossed paths along her gastronomic expedition. Each encounter enriches the narrative, bringing the culinary traditions to life. To crown each chapter, Ann generously includes an authentic recipe, meticulously detailing how to recreate each dish at home, ensuring its true flavor and essence are captured, even if you’ve never tasted the original. She offers invaluable tips for culinary success, along with ingenious substitutes for ingredients that might prove challenging to find outside of France, empowering aspiring home cooks to embark on their own delicious French culinary journey.

Intertwined seamlessly with this delightful culinary tale are touching and often humorous tidbits from Ann’s evolving personal life in Paris. The memoir offers a refreshingly honest and realistic portrait of diplomatic life, moving beyond any preconceived notions of glamour to reveal the everyday realities. We are invited to share in her moments of quiet, lonely evenings, the bittersweet anticipation of long-awaited Skype calls with her deployed husband, and her endearing cultural blunders (bien sûr, as is often the case when immersing oneself in a new country). The profound charm and emotional depth of her memoir reside precisely in the heart-wrenching contrast she experiences: living a dream life in the gorgeous city of lovers, yet ironically finding herself stuck with a deep and unexpected loneliness shortly after getting there. It is a solitude from which she slowly, bravely, and thoughtfully climbs out, one exquisitely prepared and savored dish at a time. Each meal becomes not just sustenance, but a step towards understanding her new environment, forging connections, and ultimately, discovering a renewed sense of purpose and belonging.

Mastering the Art of French Eating is truly a book that every Francophile, every dedicated food lover, and every adventurous travel buff should absolutely make time to read. Its universal appeal resonates deeply. Whether you have already had the immense pleasure of wandering through the charming streets of France or if you are still nurturing the dream of your very first visit, this book promises to transport you. It doesn’t matter if you consider yourself a seasoned expert in French cuisine or if you are a complete novice (and hey, there’s absolutely no judgment here if intriguing delicacies like andouillette haven’t yet found their way to your plate!). You will undoubtedly be utterly charmed by Ann’s authentic, heartfelt tale. By the time you close the final pages of the book, you will realize you’ve learned much more than you ever expected, gaining a richer understanding and a deeper appreciation for the intricate tapestry of French culture, history, and of course, its unparalleled gastronomy.

Mastering the Art of French Eating is available now! Don’t miss the opportunity to embark on this culinary adventure. You can order your copy today and begin your own journey, or learn more about this wonderful book and Ann Mah’s other works directly through her official website, where you can delve deeper into her insights and inspirations.

To further whet your appetite and offer an exclusive, behind-the-scenes peek into the author’s world, I recently had the distinct pleasure of asking Ann Mah a few questions. Our conversation delved into her most cherished memories from her trips to Paris, her absolute favorite dish from those featured in the book, and an update on her current, vibrant life in New York City with her husband and newborn daughter. As an extra special treat for all future travelers, she even graciously provides us with her personal, highly recommended addresses for boulangeries, pâtisseries, fromageries, and chocolateries in Paris! These insider tips are invaluable for anyone planning a gastronomic adventure to the French capital.

Q&A with Ann Mah, author of Mastering the Art of French Eating

Ann Mah, author of Mastering the Art of French Eating - Photo by Katia Grimmer-Laversanne // FoodNouveau.comWhat is the very first thing you do every time you get back to Paris?
When I return to Paris, my absolute first ritual, without fail, is to wake up early on Sunday morning specifically for grocery shopping. I live quite close to the famous rue Cler, which, during the week, can be bustling and very touristy. However, on Sunday mornings, it undergoes a beautiful transformation, becoming a vibrant, authentic local hub. The shops are exclusively filled with Parisians diligently doing their weekly rounds, stocking up before everything closes promptly at noon. There’s a wonderful, deeply neighborhoody and convivial atmosphere that I find incredibly grounding and truly miss when I’m away. It’s the perfect, most authentic way to immediately reconnect with the true rhythm and spirit of Parisian daily life.

What is the one thing you miss most when you’re not in Paris?
Beyond the obvious, breathtaking beauty of the city, I profoundly miss the simple yet deeply satisfying pleasure of taking long, aimless walks on the weekends. I love the freedom of traversing the city from north to south, moving seamlessly from the Right Bank to the Left Bank, allowing myself to get wonderfully lost in the sheer architectural grandeur and the charming discovery of hidden gems around every corner. There’s an unparalleled sense of serene discovery with every step. And, of course, I genuinely miss my local fromagerie—the personalized service, the incredible artisanal selection, and the familiar, friendly faces that become such an integral and comforting part of my daily life there. Their absence is truly felt when I’m away.

Which French specialty not included in your book do you wish you’d get the chance to go research and taste, and then recreate at home?
I would absolutely love to spend more immersive time in the vibrant and culinary rich Basque region of France. There, I would eagerly delve into the fascinating history, intricate preparation, and delicious nuances of piperade. This delightful local dish, made with a savory stew of perfectly ripe tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, and fragrant piment d’Espelette, is simply delicious, especially when traditionally served with scrambled eggs. It represents such a perfect balance of fresh, regional flavors and is genuinely ideal for a quick, yet incredibly satisfying, weeknight meal, bringing a true taste of the Southwest of France home to my kitchen.

What is the one recipe you shared in your book that has become a staple at home, one that you make over and over again?
Without a doubt, the Provençal soupe au pistou is a consistent and much-loved favorite in my household. Every summer, without fail, I make a very large batch of it. As I discovered during my extensive research for the book, this particular soup is more than just a dish; it’s a true, joyous celebration of the season itself. It beautifully showcases the incredible bounty of fresh, vibrant summer vegetables—tender courgettes, crisp green beans, and generous bunches of intensely fragrant basil. My only minor challenge when making it here in the States is finding fresh shell beans, which are integral to its authentic texture and flavor. However, if I can’t source them, I readily use dried beans, and the soup is still wonderfully flavorful, comforting, and manages to bring the delightful essence of Provence directly to my table, no matter where I am.

Right now, you share your time between two of the best cities in the world: Paris and New York City. What makes them different in your eyes, and why do you love them both so much?
For me, Paris and New York are truly like the yin and yang of my personality, each city satisfying a distinct and vital part of who I am. Paris embodies the unparalleled pleasure of long, leisurely meals, the profound art of savoring every single moment, and a deep, unhurried appreciation for beauty, history, and heritage. It’s where I consciously slow down, observe the world around me, and simply *be*. New York, on the other hand, resonates deeply with the part of me that thrives on productivity, the exhilarating energy of a “to-do” list, and the immense satisfaction of checking things off. It’s the relentless dynamism, the endless opportunities, and the vibrant, bustling energy that constantly call to me there. Both cities offer such rich, contrasting, and utterly fulfilling experiences, and I love them equally for nurturing different, yet equally important, facets of my life and spirit.

Where in the world would you like to live with Calvin (and your little girl!) next?
Ultimately, Calvin, our daughter, and I would be absolutely thrilled to live anywhere in the world that holds a deep and genuine appreciation for the profound connection between food, place, and history. This interconnectedness is what truly excites us as a family and provides endless avenues for discovery, learning, and cultural understanding. Which, when I take a moment to reflect on it, I suppose means almost everywhere in the world! Every culture boasts its unique culinary narrative, deeply rooted in its specific geography and rich past, and exploring those authentic stories together would truly be a dream come true for our family’s next adventure.

For the benefit of all those who will undoubtedly want to book a trip to Paris after reading your book, would you kindly share a few of your favorites?

  • Boulangerie: I have an enduring soft spot for Poîlane, largely because I used to live just around the corner from one of their charming shops. I practically breakfasted daily on their magnificent walnut rolls, which are dense, chewy, and incredibly satisfying. And their flaky apple tarts are simply divine, an absolute must-try, especially if you’re lucky enough to catch them still warm, straight from the oven. The aroma alone is intoxicating!
  • Pâtisserie: For an exquisite sweet treat and a true taste of Parisian artistry, I highly recommend Pâtisserie des Rêves. Their Paris-Brest is an absolute masterpiece—perfectly delicate choux pastry filled with a sublime praline cream that melts in your mouth. And their tender, vanilla-scented madeleines are miniature clouds of perfection, evoking a true, nostalgic taste of French childhood.
  • Fromagerie: Marie-Anne Cantin in the 7th arrondissement is more than just a shop; it’s an experience in itself. They approach cheese with such reverence, seriousness, and deep knowledge that I often find myself instinctively lowering my voice to a respectful whisper during the transaction. It’s truly a temple to artisanal cheese, and their expert staff can guide you to exactly what you need, whether you’re a connoisseur or a curious beginner.
  • Chocolaterie: For something truly unique and a delightful gift, Jean-Charles Rochoux in the 6th arrondissement crafts one of my all-time favorite creations: a wheel of chocolate designed to strikingly resemble a tête de moine cheese. Much like its savory counterpart, it thoughtfully comes with its own special paring device, allowing you to create beautiful, delicate flower-shaped shavings that melt deliciously on your tongue, offering a truly elegant chocolate experience.

For even more invaluable insights into Ann Mah’s favorite culinary destinations and hidden gems across France, be sure not to miss her informative new Where to Eat in France blog series. It’s a perfect and essential companion for anyone planning a truly food-focused travel adventure to this beautiful country.