Ultimate Guide: Traveling to Paris with a Baby for a Memorable Family Adventure

Embarking on a family vacation, especially with a baby, can seem like a monumental task. Yet, with careful planning and the right insights, it transforms into an incredibly rewarding experience. Our own journey to Paris with our then-seven-month-old was precisely that—a challenging but ultimately joyful adventure. We were eager to gain early experience in family travel, and the romantic, vibrant city of Paris presented itself as the perfect training ground. To our delight, the trip was a resounding success!

Traveling internationally with an infant is indeed a significant undertaking, but it is absolutely manageable when approached with thoughtful preparation. Before our departure, I delved into extensive research, seeking answers to countless questions. Returning home, I felt as though we had completed a comprehensive crash course in family travel. This experience inspired me to share our learnings, hoping to provide the essential guide I wished I had discovered before our Parisian escapade. While specifically tailored to Paris, much of this advice is universally applicable to other European destinations, ensuring smoother travels for parents everywhere.

Please note: I am not sponsored by any of the companies or brands mentioned or recommended in this article. My recommendations are purely based on my personal experience and thorough research as a dedicated travel planner, hoping to genuinely assist fellow parents in their travel preparations.

Jardin des Tuileries, a huge, kid-friendly park in Paris.

Essential Baby Gear: What to Pack for Paris

The notion of “traveling light” often feels impossible with a baby. However, it’s worth remembering that Paris is a major global city, offering virtually every baby product you’re accustomed to purchasing at home. You can significantly reduce your luggage weight by packing only a minimal supply of diapers and wipes, then buying formula, purees, and snacks upon arrival. The selection of baby products available in French pharmacies and supermarkets is as extensive, if not more so, than what you’d find in North America, ensuring you won’t compromise on quality or choice.

Despite being able to buy consumables locally, you will still need to bring some essential baby equipment. Here are our top tips and considerations for key items:

Stroller: Before our trip, I worried whether our stroller would be too bulky for Paris’s often narrow sidewalks and busy streets. Many seasoned travelers, including Parisians, advocate for a lightweight, easily foldable umbrella stroller. This advice stems from a crucial consideration: space in Paris is consistently limited. Whether you’re navigating sidewalks, public transport (metro or bus), small hotel rooms or apartments, or bustling shops and restaurants, you’ll likely need to fold and unfold your stroller countless times each day. If your current stroller is cumbersome to operate, you might quickly find yourself frustrated. However, we chose to bring our full-sized stroller, prioritizing Baby J’s comfort for on-the-go naps. We used a Baby Jogger City Mini GT, highly recommended by a friend who travels extensively. We adore it for its compact size, lightweight design, and incredibly smooth ride—perfect for Paris’s charming yet often uneven cobblestone streets. Its large, foldable sun canopy provides ample shade, and it reclines almost completely for comfortable naps. Best of all, it folds effortlessly with a single hand, making quick transitions a breeze. It’s fantastic at home, and proved even more indispensable abroad.

Baby J sleeping soundly on the banks of the Seine.

Baby Carrier: While a baby carrier is a lifesaver at home, its utility multiplies exponentially when traveling. It’s ideal for exploring places where strollers are impractical (like many museums with stairs and tight spaces) or impossible (such as scenic walking trails). I also found it invaluable for encouraging naps when Baby J resisted sleeping in his stroller. Furthermore, arriving at a restaurant with a baby in a carrier, rather than wrestling a stroller, can often lead to a warmer welcome from staff (more on dining out below). Baby carriers are typically compact and lightweight, making them an absolute must-pack item if you own one.

Travel Crib: Depending on your accommodation choice—be it a hotel or an apartment—you may need to bring your own travel crib. While some Parisian hotels offer cribs, they are not universally available and their condition can vary significantly. Always inquire about the type and brand of travel crib provided to make an informed decision about bringing your own. Even if you opt to use a hotel’s crib, it’s a good idea to pack your own fitted sheet to ensure a clean and familiar sleeping environment for your baby. Yes, lugging a travel crib through the airport can be a hassle, but once checked in, it’s out of sight until you reach your destination. Most airlines allow you to check a travel crib for free, and it usually doesn’t count towards your standard luggage weight limit. Some cribs can be cumbersome even when folded, so if frequent family travel is in your future, investing in a compact and lightweight model is wise. We were extremely satisfied with the BabyBjörn Travel Crib Light: it truly lives up to its “light” promise, folds into a bag the size of a small suitcase, and can be set up in mere seconds. For babies like ours, sleeping in a familiar crib can be very reassuring, contributing to better sleep throughout the trip.

Portable High Chair: We cannot recommend our Lobster Chair enough—it is, without a doubt, the single most useful baby item we own for travel and dining out. This innovative portable high chair securely clamps to most tables, allowing your baby to join you at eye level. We started using it when Baby J was just four months old and too small for standard restaurant highchairs. It effectively allowed us to resume dining out and enjoy (relatively) peaceful meals with him comfortably seated at the table. We carry it everywhere due to its lightweight design and ability to fold compactly into a small handbag. In Paris, it was indispensable at our apartment and during every meal out. Given that Parisian restaurants rarely provide highchairs, we would have otherwise spent most meals holding Baby J on our laps—hardly a relaxing experience. We believe that Baby J’s consistent use of his familiar chair made him more comfortable and patient, enabling us to enjoy meals at a normal pace. I genuinely can’t imagine dining out with a baby without it!

Baby J comfortably installed in his Lobster Chair at Le Pain Quotidien.

Changing Pads: Yes, plural! Changing tables are incredibly rare in Parisian establishments; it’s best to assume you won’t encounter any on your outings. The only places I found them were at the airport and in one large department store. Everywhere else, I had to change Baby J on the floor. Given that public restroom floors are far from pristine, you should bring several changing pads, especially if you won’t have access to a washing machine. Another practical option is to stock up on disposable changing pads for ultimate convenience and hygiene.

Consider Renting Baby Equipment in Paris

For those looking to significantly lighten their packing load, renting baby equipment locally is an excellent solution. Companies like Baby’Tems offer a wide range of items, from strollers to toys, and provide convenient delivery directly to your hotel or apartment in Paris. While I haven’t personally used Baby’Tems, we utilized a similar service during a trip to Miami and found it incredibly helpful. The major advantages include guaranteed clean and functional equipment, clear instructions for use, and a hassle-free pickup service before your departure. It’s a genuine lifesaver for many parents. While not the cheapest option, the convenience and reduction in travel stress it offers can be well worth the investment.

Accommodation in Paris: Apartments vs. Hotels with a Baby

Unless your stay in Paris is for only a couple of nights, I wholeheartedly recommend renting an apartment over a hotel. From my perspective, apartment rentals offer numerous advantages for families (and even travelers without babies). You typically benefit from a lower nightly rate compared to hotels, significantly more living space, and the delightful bonus of feeling more like a local. Booking through reputable sites like Airbnb and Roomorama is both easy and secure, with a vast selection of properties across all arrondissements, ensuring you can find a place perfectly tailored to your family’s needs.

The cute (and roomy!) bedroom in one of the Airbnb apartments we’ve previously rented in Paris.

Here are several crucial factors to consider when searching for the ideal family-friendly apartment in Paris:

Location: A wise friend once told me that with a baby, the clock starts ticking the moment you leave your accommodation. Staying in a central location is paramount. Choose an area that puts you within easy walking distance of major attractions, a variety of restaurants, and essential shopping. This allows you to maximize your sightseeing during the precious hours when your baby is content being out and about, and facilitates quick returns for naps or unforeseen needs.
Floor and Elevator Access: Many buildings in Paris, particularly older ones, average five to six floors, and a significant number do not have elevators. If you want to avoid the arduous task of carrying a stroller (and baby, and bags!) up and down multiple flights of stairs several times a day, be sure to check the “elevator” filter when searching on apartment rental sites. Even with an elevator, be aware that you might still need to navigate a few steps to reach it. Parisian elevators are also famously tiny—the one in our rental could only fit one of us at a time and required folding our stroller to get it inside. Furthermore, not all elevators extend to the very top floor, so an elevator reaching the third floor won’t be much help if your apartment is on the fifth. If specific details about the elevator are missing from the apartment listing, always ask the owner directly to prevent unwelcome surprises.

You definitely don’t want to face these stairs with a stroller!

Bathroom Configuration: Parisian bathrooms are often compact. Some feature a bathtub but lack a showerhead, while others have a standing shower but no bath. Depending on your baby’s age and your usual bathing routine, carefully scrutinize the bathroom photos to understand the layout. Although our rented apartment had a full-sized bath, we found it much more convenient to bathe Baby J in the kitchen sink. It was spacious enough for him and significantly quicker to fill, empty, and clean on a daily basis.
Washing Machine: While you might overlook this amenity when traveling solo, with a baby, a washing machine becomes a non-negotiable. Despite packing numerous washcloths, bibs, and onesies, Baby J went through them at an impressive rate, making laundry access absolutely crucial. It also allowed us to pack fewer changes of clothes, freeing up valuable luggage space for other essential baby items. Be aware that the vast majority of Parisian apartments are equipped only with washing machines; dryers are rare, so air-drying on a rack is the standard practice.
Other Amenities: When selecting an apartment for your family trip to Paris, consider inquiring about these additional amenities:
- Microwave Oven: Many Parisians don’t own microwaves due to limited kitchen space. Our rental, for instance, didn’t have one, so we relied on the bain-marie method (heating in a hot water bath) to warm Baby J’s milk and purees. Doing this several times a day can be time-consuming, so if your baby prefers warmed food, a microwave can be incredibly convenient.
- Air Conditioning: The vast majority of Parisian apartments do not have AC. In the summer, top-floor apartments can become quite warm during the day, though they often benefit from cooling breezes at night. Ask if the bedroom faces an interior courtyard, which typically ensures a quieter environment, allowing you to leave windows open overnight for ventilation. Alternatively, make AC a key criterion in your apartment search if traveling in warmer months.
- Internet/Wi-Fi/Cable TV/Phone: Internet, TV, and phone packages are generally affordable in France, so most rentals include these services, often with long-distance calling. If you have specific connectivity or entertainment needs, confirm the details with the owner.

Navigating Paris with an Infant: Transportation Tips

Airport Transfers & Taxis

In the past, we always used the RER train for airport transfers to the city center. However, with a stroller and substantial luggage, navigating Paris’s metro and train network can be a significant challenge (more on this below). This time, we opted for a taxi. While you can typically find a taxi at designated stands outside the airport, Parisian taxi drivers can sometimes be notoriously brusque, which might not be ideal when traveling with a baby. Fortunately, several excellent options cater specifically to families for both airport transfers and city travel:

Taxis G7 Family Cabs: Finding an impromptu taxi in Paris can be tricky; I’ve rarely succeeded in hailing one at a designated stand. For years, I’ve relied on Taxis G7’s excellent online booking service. Their website and mobile app allow you to request an immediate taxi or book one in advance, providing real-time progress and arrival notifications. Crucially, they now offer “Family Cabs,” which come equipped with booster seats and baby seats. Due to their limited availability, Family Cabs are rarely available on demand, so it’s essential to book at least an hour in advance. The drivers of Family Cabs are generally friendly and helpful, assisting with luggage and ensuring your baby is safely secured. They are ideal for trips to the airport, train station, or any journey you can plan ahead.

Baby J enjoying a safe ride.

If you need a taxi at a moment’s notice, be aware that it’s permissible to ride with a baby on your lap. We did this a few times for short distances, and drivers typically accept babies and strollers without issue. For safety, ensure you hold your baby facing you (similar to a burping position) to provide support for their neck and head, protecting them from abrupt movements during starts and stops.
Taxi Baby Seat: While their website may appear outdated, the service itself is highly reliable and excellent, especially for airport transfers to and from Paris. You pay a fixed price online in advance or upon arrival at the airport, and a driver will be waiting for you inside the arrivals terminal with a sign displaying your name. These drivers are very helpful, and the vehicles are typically minivans equipped with appropriate baby seats or boosters to comfortably accommodate your family. It’s advisable to book in advance, though a half-day lead time is usually sufficient.

Paris Métro and Trains

The Paris Métro and train network is notoriously difficult to navigate for parents with strollers or individuals with mobility challenges. The vast majority of stations simply lack elevators or escalators. While carrying a stroller up and down stairs is certainly doable, be prepared for dozens of steps in some stations, which can be exhausting or even hazardous during crowded rush hours when you’re likely to be jostled by hurried commuters.

Although many stations are undergoing renovations, the Métro’s historic configuration and age mean it will never be fully accessible. One notable exception is the most recent line, Line 14. Running along the Seine up to the St-Lazare train station, this line is fully equipped with elevators, and the train floor is level with the platform, making it incredibly stroller-friendly. It’s a useful line for reaching several key Parisian attractions, including the Louvre, Opéra Garnier, Les Halles, Place de la Madeleine, and the grand department stores.

For detailed accessibility information regarding Paris Métro and train stations, visit Île de France Mobilités.

Other Means of Transportation in Paris

Bus: My friend Ann, a mom and part-time Paris resident, highly recommends taking the bus over the Métro, primarily because you can simply roll your fully opened stroller directly onto the bus. While I haven’t personally tried it, her advice is gold. The Île de France Mobilités website provides a list of bus lines served by flat-floor buses, though regular buses can also accommodate strollers. To effectively plan your bus journeys, download the official RATP app, available for iOS, Android, and Windows Phone (the website is in French, but the app offers English).

On Foot: Walking has always been my favorite way to experience Paris. Strolling through the streets, admiring the architecture, spontaneously popping into inviting shops, and simply people-watching are the reasons I could never tire of this city. As a visitor, your schedule is likely flexible (or should be!), so embrace the opportunity to take your time and let yourself get pleasantly lost for a while. Walking also suited Baby J perfectly; he was captivated by the constant stream of traffic, bikes, and pedestrians. I initially worried the city noise might be overwhelming, but he wasn’t even startled by sirens or horns. We often forget how noisy life in the womb can be, and how a bustling environment can sometimes actually be comforting for a baby. As mentioned earlier, if you plan on extensive walking, staying in a central location is key for those moments when baby absolutely needs to be back at your accommodation. For longer distances or when tired, a short taxi ride is affordable and can save a lot of stress.

Dining Out in Paris with a Baby

Eating out with a baby in Paris is often cited as a potential nightmare by visiting parents. Many are surprised by the cool reception they receive when arriving avec bébé at a Parisian restaurant. It’s important not to take this personally, as infant patrons can genuinely pose logistical challenges for Parisian servers and establishments. There are three primary reasons for this common experience:

Limited Space: Most Parisian restaurants are inherently cramped. Accommodating a baby and a stroller means staff must creatively find space where often there is simply none, which can disrupt the flow and seating arrangement for other diners.
Lack of Facilities: The majority of restaurants do not have highchairs (they are considered cumbersome for small spaces) or changing tables. Restrooms are frequently so tiny that there isn’t even enough floor space to comfortably lay a baby down for a diaper change.
Time Constraints: Many restaurants become incredibly busy during peak meal hours, placing significant demands on servers. Some staff unfortunately anticipate that families might be fussier patrons, potentially adding to their already heavy workload.

The airy and casual Café Campana at Musée d’Orsay.

That said, dining out with a baby in Paris can absolutely be a delightful experience if you know how to navigate the local customs and where to look. Here are some invaluable tips:

Survey the Space: Before committing, take a quick glance inside. If a restaurant appears particularly tiny, with tables practically touching, it’s best to save both yourself and the staff trouble by seeking an alternative.
Scout Restaurants During the Day: As you explore Paris on foot during the day, make mental (or actual) notes of places that seem baby-friendly. Look for ample space, a quiet location, or a menu that looks appealing.
Take Advantage of Terraces: Outdoor seating offers more room, making it easier to position a stroller next to your table. However, be mindful that smoking is generally permitted on terraces, so the air quality might deteriorate during busy periods.
Plan Off-Peak Dining: Many restaurants, including some higher-end establishments, will be far more welcoming if you arrive during off-peak hours. For lunch, aiming for 12 p.m. (noon) is ideal, and for dinner, 7 p.m. is generally best. Arriving early means servers will have more time and attention for you, and your food will likely arrive more quickly.
Pack a Picnic: Paris is a paradise for picnics! Bakeries (boulangeries), pastry shops (pâtisseries), gourmet grocery stores (épiceries fines), and farmers’ markets (marchés) offer an incredible array of fresh, delicious, and easy-to-assemble picnic fare. Just add a bottle of wine (for the adults, of course!) and find a beautiful park.
Go Casual or International: Casual eateries like cafés, crêperies, and bistros, as well as restaurants serving international cuisines (such as Chinese, Japanese, or Italian), tend to be more accustomed to and generally more welcoming of families with children.
Dine at Touristic Sites or Department Stores: Large department stores and major museums often feature numerous dining options, from casual to upscale. These venues are typically more accustomed to catering to families and are therefore more likely to offer a warm welcome. They are also more likely (though never guaranteed) to have high chairs.
Manage Expectations: Don’t let a server’s indifferent attitude or the absence of baby-friendly facilities spoil your mood. By coming prepared with your own gear and a flexible mindset, you significantly increase your chances of having a wonderful dining experience.

Crêpes, a ubiquitous but sometimes life-saving meal choice in Paris.

Our Favorite Baby-Friendly Dining Spots in Paris:

Le Pain Quotidien: With 10 locations across Paris, this spot is excellent for breakfast, weekend brunches, and offers fantastic takeout treats. Its communal tables often provide a more relaxed atmosphere.
Marché des Enfants Rouges: This fantastic covered market in the Marais district offers a vibrant array of food stalls from around the world. It’s a casual, bustling environment where families are welcome to grab food and find a spot to eat.
Merci: A fascinating concept store featuring three distinct restaurants. The Used Book Café is particularly charming. If you’re in the area, don’t miss the nearby BonTon, arguably Paris’s best children’s store, spanning three stories with a photobooth and even a hairdresser!
Colorova Pâtisserie: One of my favorite hidden gems in Paris, Colorova is a beautiful café, pastry shop, and tea room (thanks to Lindsey for the tip!). It serves outstanding prix fixe lunches and brunches in a relaxed, aesthetically pleasing atmosphere.
Les 400 Coups: A truly kid-friendly place that also delights parents. They boast high chairs, changing tables, and even a dedicated play space for children—a rare find in Paris!
La Pâtisserie des Rêves at BHV/Marais: One of Paris’s finest pastry shops now has an outpost in the grand department store BHV/Marais. The dining room is airy, allowing you to comfortably sample their world-famous pastries (after a light salad or sandwich, of course). Their Paris-Brest is truly legendary.

A cozy nook at Colorova Pâtisserie.

More Highly Recommended Family-Friendly Restaurants:

Dining Out with Kids in Paris, by author and Paris resident Ann Mah
Kid-Friendly Dining in Paris, by The Hip Paris Blog
Family-Friendly Places to Eat, by Lulaville.com
Family-Friendly Restaurants and Cafés, by TimeOut Paris
Travel Guide: Paris for Kids, by Pamela Druckerman for The New York Times
Best Family-Friendly Restaurants in Paris, by Kate van den Boogert for Travel+Leisure
Kid-Friendly Restaurants, by Paris by Mouth
Paris holidays: family-friendly restaurants, shops and things to do, by Natasha Edwards for The Telegraph

A vibrant dining spot at Marché des Enfants Rouges.

Family-Friendly Activities: What to Do in Paris with a Baby

While Paris offers a plethora of kid-friendly activities, finding specific baby-friendly options might seem less obvious. However, as with all travel challenges, there are creative solutions. For instance, many Parisian parks feature beautiful, often roped-off grassy areas; remember to bring a blanket for your baby to play on. I also didn’t encounter any baby-specific “basket” swings, but you can always put your baby in a carrier and enjoy the swing yourself! Babies are generally fascinated by the world unfolding around them, so embrace this stage where they’re content to follow you everywhere without protest.

Jardins du Luxembourg, a family-friendly park in Paris.

Curated Lists of Things to Do (Enjoyable for Parents Too!):

Paris with kids: a family-friendly city break, by Kim Horton-Levesque for The Guardian
Ten Great Things to Do With Kids in Paris, by David Lebovitz
Family Outings in Paris, by the Mairie de Paris
Paris Week: Ten Off-the-Beaten-Track Places to Take Kids, by Ciao Bambino!
Playtime in Paris: Kid-Friendly Activities for the Whole Family, by The Hip Paris Blog
Paris City Guide, by Babyccino Kids
50 things for kids to do in Paris, by TimeOut Paris
The Paris Kids Guide, by Goop

Family-Friendly Walking Tours:

Paris Family Tour Guide: Isabelle Southgate (a guided option)
Self-Guided: City Walks with Kids: Paris Adventures on Foot (a useful resource for independent exploration)

Kids’ Shopping in Paris:

Kids’ Shops in Paris, by Travel+Leisure
Best Fashion for Kids in Paris, by Kate van den Boogert for Travel+Leisure
Paris Shopping for Kids, by Lulaville.com

Recommended Kid-Friendly Paris Travel Guides and Storybooks:

Fodor’s Around Paris with Kids
The Little Bookroom Guide to Paris with Children: Play, Eat, Shop, Stay, by Kim Horton Levesque
Not For Parents Paris: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know, by Lonely Planet
City Walks with Kids: Paris Adventures on Foot, by Natasha Edwards
This is Paris, by Miroslav Sasek
A Walk in Paris, by Salvatore Rubbino
Come With Me To Paris, by Gloria Fowler
Paris: A 3D Keepsake Cityscape, by Sarah McMenemy

The cozy Used Book Café at the Merci concept store.

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Have you traveled to Paris with a baby or with older children? We’d love for you to share your additional tips, activity ideas, and restaurant recommendations in the comments section below to help fellow parents plan their Parisian adventures!

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